I wake up Sunday to the sound of women wailing; a sound, in this culture, which only means one thing. The old man who lives across from me, who I have seen every morning since I arrived here being pushed around his house in his wheelchair, has died. The wailing is constant throughout the day, visitors coming and going, joining in this ritual of mourning. For seven days as more family and friends arrive to pay respects and keep constant vigil, the wailing will continue, each arrival kicking up a new round of grief.
This is not the first time I have heard wailing since coming to Cape Verde. With every death or anniversary of death comes the wailing of widows, daughters, family and friends. At first I thought it was heart breaking; distressing to hear these public cries of loss, but as the wailing continues, it seems to me more of an obligation than a true emotion. It is a tradition, a way that people let the community know that one of their own has gone, but the forced structure of the wailing is something I cannot comprehend. In the US, mourning and loss is such a personal thing; sadness and tears are normal, but not in this public, group manner that has time constraints. After the seventh day, the wailing will stop until the first anniversary of death, and every year after, as family comes home in recognition of the death, the wailing will commence again.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Wednesday, September 19, 2007
My life in Fogo
Sorry for the long delay in blog entries folks, but every time I sit down to write something, I feel like I have nothing to say; which is definitely not true because so many things have changed since the last entry. So I will try to hammer out everything new because, frankly, dinner is in the oven and will take a while so there is nothing better to do. First of all, you have seen the pictures of Fogo, my beautiful volcanic island and some randoms of some of the other volunteers and me, so I hope I have satisfied one of your hungers…
…Now for the other. I have been in São Felipe now for almost 3 weeks and am still trying to settle in and feel “at home” here. Although I was nervous about living by myself, I shouldn’t have been because I think I have only spent 4 nights by myself in those three weeks. My house, since it is in the major town, tends to be the transit house. The volunteers that live in the rural areas have to come in to buy produce and use the internet, so they end up staying the night because transport around the island is shifty. I think that once the school year gets under way things will settle down. Luckily I enjoy the company and the two volunteers that live in the volcano are real foodies so whenever they are here they make me a superb meal as their fee for staying. Speaking of cooking, I have learned that cooking from scratch takes quite awhile, and when dinner preparation takes more than an hour and it is only me, I tend to have a lot of food left over. I am trying to adapt recipes for one, but the guessing of measurements can sometimes lead to disaster. But I have found I love to cook and experiment with all of the recipes I have, and even the hour of preparation passes the time and is fun because I turn on my music and dance around while I chop. The main produce that goes into everything that I make (partially because it is all I can get here) is garlic, green pepper, tomato and onion…yes I said onion. I willingly put onion in everything now. I even put raw onion in my tuna salad sandwiches. For those of you who don’t know, my disgust for onion in the states was one of the great hatreds of this world, but I guess my palate is changing. I also have willingly bought and cooked fish and I make myself a cup of tea before I go to bed so I guess already Peace Corps has changed me for the better. Let’s see, other food…I eat a lot of beans because there is not a whole lot of other protein that I like to fumble with. I do get chicken and of course fish and I make my own tortillas and pizza dough so I have already had a Mexican night and an Italian night!! I do make everything spicy because all I brought with me is crushed red pepper and the wonderful dried peppers of Jim Nelson (which before too long I will be needing a refill of!). Other types of spices are hard to find here so the Italian spices are in the mail (hopefully soon) and if anyone has anything that I have to have feel free to send it!
I have not been doing much in the way of “work” because as a community development volunteer, part of my initial job description is to integrate into the community and assess its needs. So, there is no daily 9-5 work schedule set up for me as of yet. I have been in contact with the two main institutions that I will be working with; the Centro de Juventude (youth center) and the OMCV, which is the national woman’s organization in Cape Verde. One of the projects the OMCV is doing right now is working with the youth of Fogo, holding information sessions on HIV/AIDS and related health topics. I have already attended a three day seminar and am excited to see how I can help with this project even more. So, since I don’t go into work all day, what do I do?? Well, Sunday and Monday, were basically spent washing my clothes. Man that takes a long time!!! And along with the duration of the activity, it is a massive arm work out as well! The ringing out of the clothes is the hardest part, especially the sheets and towels. I also spend a lot of time just walking around the town so that people get used to seeing me. But the walking here is crazy because my town 1) is hot as hell, and coming from Arizona I am qualified to say that…I literally think I sweat out about a gallon of water a day. I wish that I had brought more airy dresses, shorts and comfortable shirts because that is literally all that I wear. And my house isn’t much better for the heat, there is no ventilation so I sweat my ass off inside too, especially in the kitchen!! Ok, so not only is it hot here, but 2)the town of São Felipe is all hill. Every time I leave my house for something I have to go DOWN to the center of town, and getting back UP is unlike any exercise I have ever done. I know this might sound like an exaggeration, but as soon as I have my first visitor from the states you will see that it’s not. It’s hard, and it’s hot so maybe soon I will actually be in good shape!
Ok, dinner is done so that is all for now…I promise to try and be better with the entries!
Oh and if you wanted to know, dinner is a casserole with chicken, potatoes, peas and cream of mushroom soup (homemade of course)!
…Now for the other. I have been in São Felipe now for almost 3 weeks and am still trying to settle in and feel “at home” here. Although I was nervous about living by myself, I shouldn’t have been because I think I have only spent 4 nights by myself in those three weeks. My house, since it is in the major town, tends to be the transit house. The volunteers that live in the rural areas have to come in to buy produce and use the internet, so they end up staying the night because transport around the island is shifty. I think that once the school year gets under way things will settle down. Luckily I enjoy the company and the two volunteers that live in the volcano are real foodies so whenever they are here they make me a superb meal as their fee for staying. Speaking of cooking, I have learned that cooking from scratch takes quite awhile, and when dinner preparation takes more than an hour and it is only me, I tend to have a lot of food left over. I am trying to adapt recipes for one, but the guessing of measurements can sometimes lead to disaster. But I have found I love to cook and experiment with all of the recipes I have, and even the hour of preparation passes the time and is fun because I turn on my music and dance around while I chop. The main produce that goes into everything that I make (partially because it is all I can get here) is garlic, green pepper, tomato and onion…yes I said onion. I willingly put onion in everything now. I even put raw onion in my tuna salad sandwiches. For those of you who don’t know, my disgust for onion in the states was one of the great hatreds of this world, but I guess my palate is changing. I also have willingly bought and cooked fish and I make myself a cup of tea before I go to bed so I guess already Peace Corps has changed me for the better. Let’s see, other food…I eat a lot of beans because there is not a whole lot of other protein that I like to fumble with. I do get chicken and of course fish and I make my own tortillas and pizza dough so I have already had a Mexican night and an Italian night!! I do make everything spicy because all I brought with me is crushed red pepper and the wonderful dried peppers of Jim Nelson (which before too long I will be needing a refill of!). Other types of spices are hard to find here so the Italian spices are in the mail (hopefully soon) and if anyone has anything that I have to have feel free to send it!
I have not been doing much in the way of “work” because as a community development volunteer, part of my initial job description is to integrate into the community and assess its needs. So, there is no daily 9-5 work schedule set up for me as of yet. I have been in contact with the two main institutions that I will be working with; the Centro de Juventude (youth center) and the OMCV, which is the national woman’s organization in Cape Verde. One of the projects the OMCV is doing right now is working with the youth of Fogo, holding information sessions on HIV/AIDS and related health topics. I have already attended a three day seminar and am excited to see how I can help with this project even more. So, since I don’t go into work all day, what do I do?? Well, Sunday and Monday, were basically spent washing my clothes. Man that takes a long time!!! And along with the duration of the activity, it is a massive arm work out as well! The ringing out of the clothes is the hardest part, especially the sheets and towels. I also spend a lot of time just walking around the town so that people get used to seeing me. But the walking here is crazy because my town 1) is hot as hell, and coming from Arizona I am qualified to say that…I literally think I sweat out about a gallon of water a day. I wish that I had brought more airy dresses, shorts and comfortable shirts because that is literally all that I wear. And my house isn’t much better for the heat, there is no ventilation so I sweat my ass off inside too, especially in the kitchen!! Ok, so not only is it hot here, but 2)the town of São Felipe is all hill. Every time I leave my house for something I have to go DOWN to the center of town, and getting back UP is unlike any exercise I have ever done. I know this might sound like an exaggeration, but as soon as I have my first visitor from the states you will see that it’s not. It’s hard, and it’s hot so maybe soon I will actually be in good shape!
Ok, dinner is done so that is all for now…I promise to try and be better with the entries!
Oh and if you wanted to know, dinner is a casserole with chicken, potatoes, peas and cream of mushroom soup (homemade of course)!
Monday, September 17, 2007
It´s been a while...sorry
More photos for everyone!!
Sorry they are really out of order.
This is what Fogo looks like!!
The new group going to Fogo...Sean, Me, Andrea and Dave
All of the new volunteers after Swear-in.
Sorry they are really out of order.
This is what Fogo looks like!!
This is my house!! I live on the bottom floor and there is a family that lives above me. The grandma makes really good doughnuts!!
My living room...
More of the beaches of fogo.
The new group going to Fogo...Sean, Me, Andrea and Dave
Sarah and I on our last day together...how sad.
The lava canals in Fogo!! This island is so diverse and has some really cool things to look at.
More lava canals.
The black sand beaches.
All of the new volunteers after Swear-in.Ok, Ok, I am finally going to get up a little something since it has been a while!! I promise to write more but write now I am just going to put up a hodge podge of pictures for everyone to see!
Also so everyone knows, I have a new address where I would love to get letters or care packages!! And especially if any of you have time, I need recipes, so send me your favorite dish because I am cooking a lot and feel like I am going to need some variety!!
Lauren Dotson
C.P. 87
Sao Felipe, Fogo
Rebublica de Cabo Verde
Saturday, August 18, 2007
Table for one??
We got our site placements yesterday!!! I am going to the island of Fogo which I am so excited about...however, I will be in one of the bigger towns there and I will be living by myself. I had wanted a more rural site but of course I am going to take this and run with it! There are 4 other volunteers from my group going to the island as well, 2 boys and 2 other girls. The 2 boys will be on the other side of the island from me and the two girls should be just around the island a little, but transportation is a bit sparadic so we´ll see how often I get to see everyone!!! I´m a little nervous about the being on my own thing and I´ll have to learn how to cook for just one!! Ok, that´s all I have for now...I´ll let you know my mental state before I leave for site in two weeks!!
Pictures...finally
This is Suili...she lives in my house and this was on her birthday!! She turned 4.
This is my youth developement group...Samira is our language facilitator (her son Dinari is on her back), Sarah is the blonde with the crazy hair, Whitney in the middle, and Leah but she is one of the girls who have already gone home, so it´s really just the 4 of us!
This is mama Julia!! We are sitting infront of my homestay house which is where i spend a lot of my time.
A group of us at the concentration camp that was here in Cape Verde...Emily, Daron, Dannielle, Marieka, Scott and Me!
There was a big festival in one of the homestay villages and this is some of us eating at one of the trainees house...Me, Sean, Brian and Sarah (making a really pretty face!)
This is Ribeira Di Barka!! I walk out my door every evening and see this beautiful sunset!!
Me in front of my house with all the little ones!!Saturday, August 11, 2007
When the lights go down in the city
Ok so I had to throw a little Journey in...
Since last sunday we have been without electricity in my village. Normally we have lights from about mid day to mid night but something happened and the whole week has been dark. Personally, I love it and am now even more convinced that I hope I get a sight with limited or no electricity. Instead of watching Brazilian novelas after dinner, everyone goes and sits in the street and talks under a gorgeously stary sky. And it is also a great excuse to get to go to bed at 9 and not look like a complete loser!!! The lights going out was especially neat this week because Sarah (see below to see who she is) lives with a family who´s son is a super famous musician here in cape verde and he is here visiting...so we sat in the dark under the stars and he played the guitar and sang...it was a little surreal and you all have to go check out the singer Tcheka.
Last weekend, this girl sarah, who is in my youth developement group and so lives in my same village, arranged for a BBQ at her house for the peace corps peeps. We all went up hiking to this little waterfall first and on the way back to town, the first hard rain of the season started!! We hiked for an hour and a half in the heavy rain and it was so amazing to see all the local villages we passed through because eveyone was so excited and yelling and celebrating the start of the rainy seaon. In this drought plagued country, rain means food and that is definately a reason to be happy. ~
Once we got back from the hike, sarah had make us lunch (chicken not fish!) and we all ate and then a group of about 8 spent the night and for a split second we could all imagine that we were back in america partying with our own group of friends...it was great to have that one little bit of´ámerican´time and it was really nice to get to relax and have a beer with the group because we don´t all get to hang out a lot with the schedule we have.
In other news, we find out our permenant sites NEXT friday so hopefully the next time i post something it will be where i am living for the next two years!!
Since last sunday we have been without electricity in my village. Normally we have lights from about mid day to mid night but something happened and the whole week has been dark. Personally, I love it and am now even more convinced that I hope I get a sight with limited or no electricity. Instead of watching Brazilian novelas after dinner, everyone goes and sits in the street and talks under a gorgeously stary sky. And it is also a great excuse to get to go to bed at 9 and not look like a complete loser!!! The lights going out was especially neat this week because Sarah (see below to see who she is) lives with a family who´s son is a super famous musician here in cape verde and he is here visiting...so we sat in the dark under the stars and he played the guitar and sang...it was a little surreal and you all have to go check out the singer Tcheka.
Last weekend, this girl sarah, who is in my youth developement group and so lives in my same village, arranged for a BBQ at her house for the peace corps peeps. We all went up hiking to this little waterfall first and on the way back to town, the first hard rain of the season started!! We hiked for an hour and a half in the heavy rain and it was so amazing to see all the local villages we passed through because eveyone was so excited and yelling and celebrating the start of the rainy seaon. In this drought plagued country, rain means food and that is definately a reason to be happy. ~
Once we got back from the hike, sarah had make us lunch (chicken not fish!) and we all ate and then a group of about 8 spent the night and for a split second we could all imagine that we were back in america partying with our own group of friends...it was great to have that one little bit of´ámerican´time and it was really nice to get to relax and have a beer with the group because we don´t all get to hang out a lot with the schedule we have.
In other news, we find out our permenant sites NEXT friday so hopefully the next time i post something it will be where i am living for the next two years!!
Wednesday, August 1, 2007
So the last few weeks have been super busy. We have lost two members of our group which makes it hit home that, although sometimes it feels like it, we are not on vaction. I have made it to the half-way point of training and still can´t believe that I am really here. We have a completely different experience than any other post...cape verde is not like any other country in the world and sometimes it may seem like we volunteers have it easy here because we have so many more amenities than those say on the continent, but the mind games that Cape Verde plays on you can be tough. Our post here has one of the highest eary termination rates and I think I know why. On the continent it´s supposed to be hard...you´re in the Peace Corps in a village in the middle of nowhere and you know why it´s hard. Here, with more cities and internet cafe´s and discotecs, you think `why am i having such a hard time, I have light and an indoor bathroom´. But enough about random thoughts, here is what I´ve been up too.
Last weekend we went to a concentration camp here in Cape Verde. We looked around a bit and then went to the beach...then sunday I washed all my clothes, which once I leave my homestay i will never be able to wear my jeans again because I am not stong enough to ring them out!! Sunday night we went to the discotec in our village (yes we have a disco) and I was taught how to dance!! Man...like i said before Cape Verdeans have so much invested in their music and dance that it is something i am privliged to learn...but the upbeat dance called Funana takes a lot of energy!!! We find out our permenant site placement on august 10 and i have asked for a more rural spot but of course I have absolutely no imput in the final decision. Also, we took a mid training language exam and I am already at the level required for me to swear in as a volunteer (but I could definately not go out into the world yet!) And I have learned some other thing about my self and here is what they are.
I don´t mind cockroaches as much as I despise ants.
I can take a bucket bath using only 4 cups of water and do a pretty damn good job!
I get a little motion sick swimming in the ocean.
I CAN eat fish and drink tea every night even though i hate them both!!
I love my host sister Su...she rocks and has biceps the size of potatoes cause she works her ass off all day doing house work.
I love hiace rides...they are like rollercoaster rides.
Last weekend we went to a concentration camp here in Cape Verde. We looked around a bit and then went to the beach...then sunday I washed all my clothes, which once I leave my homestay i will never be able to wear my jeans again because I am not stong enough to ring them out!! Sunday night we went to the discotec in our village (yes we have a disco) and I was taught how to dance!! Man...like i said before Cape Verdeans have so much invested in their music and dance that it is something i am privliged to learn...but the upbeat dance called Funana takes a lot of energy!!! We find out our permenant site placement on august 10 and i have asked for a more rural spot but of course I have absolutely no imput in the final decision. Also, we took a mid training language exam and I am already at the level required for me to swear in as a volunteer (but I could definately not go out into the world yet!) And I have learned some other thing about my self and here is what they are.
I don´t mind cockroaches as much as I despise ants.
I can take a bucket bath using only 4 cups of water and do a pretty damn good job!
I get a little motion sick swimming in the ocean.
I CAN eat fish and drink tea every night even though i hate them both!!
I love my host sister Su...she rocks and has biceps the size of potatoes cause she works her ass off all day doing house work.
I love hiace rides...they are like rollercoaster rides.
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